Fan switch install, step by step.

Remove seat: (you can skip if you already know how to do this)


seatremove1.png

Under the seat there is a plastic triangle. It is only held in by the friction of a post pusted into a rubber grommet. 
work your finger behind the back of the triangle.....


seatremove2.png
and swing it open like a car door. repeat for other side.


seatremove3.png

you will now see the seat screws. if you do not know how to remove them, please, just stop now. lol.



Desired behavior: when the switch is flipped one way, one fan comes on. when flipped the other way, both are on. when centered, all are off.

Circuit behavoir: when switch is flipped one way, a fan relay is connected to battery ground. when flipped the other way, both fan relays are connected to ground. when centered, nothing is connected.


Note for the pics below: I have already completed the fan switch mod, so if you look carefully, you can see it done.


Parts:

Fan switch
Solder (silver solder is best)
Wire.
small zipties
wire loom covering (optional)
small crimp connector for battery terminal.
heatshrink (optional)

Tools:
small drill to mount switch. dremel works. knife works too, its only plastic. 
soldering iron.
wire strippers.
small screwdriver or pick to pry with.

Fan switch. any DPDT (double-pole, Double-throw) switch will work. if you only want to turn one fan on and off, almost any switch will work. the switch used by me is similar to radio shack 275-0663. heres a pic: radioshackswitch.png




first an overall idea of what we're doing. this is your underseat area:
LabeledUnderseat.png

this is our basic wiring route plan:
WiringPlan.png



ok, first thing we need to do is make our switch. Solder the BATTERY GROUND wire to the TWO CENTER posts. both of them, in the middle.
solder ONE short wire between the switch. look at the picture below. be sure it clears the ground, otherwise the fan will always be on.
now solder the two fan wires on their posts. refer to the picture.  If you can not figure out this part, then this is why you pay $80 for a $3 switch. it isnt hard, so dont worry.  leave the fan wires long.

switchwiring.png



ok, you now have your fan wiring. lets go test-mount the switch. 
goto your bike, and look in the front triangle area under the seat/tank. CAREFULLY note where the switch fits on the inside, and where it will clear on the outside.. refer to my installed pic for reference:
SwitchLocation1.png
SwitchLocation2.png
SwitchLocation3.png


be sure theres enough room to flip the switch... once you're sure, drill the hole, and test mount the switch.

with the switch test mounted, route the wires to their general areas... cut the battery connection to length. If you're crimping the connector, you may do so now. i crimp then solder my crimp connections.

with the wires now clipped to proper lengths, go back to the soldering iron.
strip the ends of the wire, and with your silver solder (this is important) tin the ends of the wire. for more on soldering and tinning, you can google it, but basiclly heat the wire until the solder flows into it.
this is done for two reasons:
1. it prevents corrosion. silver does not corrode the electrical connection like copper will. 
2. it makes the end of the wire stiff, so it will not come loose later.

i also solder the ring terminal for the battery connetion now


back to the bike:

remove the fusebox cover.
on the back of the fusebox, there is a small latch holding the box in place. you may now insert your screwdriver/pick and unlatch the box.. lift the fusebox up.
pryliftfusebox.png


fuseboxfree.png




if you flip the fusebox over, you will see the back of all the connectors. you may now push the wire into the proper terminal holes... please refer to the pic. its where the fat blue wires are pushed in.
underfusebox1.png
underfusebox2.png